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this passage is from copy my old post at travelife.org :
http://www.travellife.org/viewthread.php?tid=16752&page=1&fromuid=3282#pid121522
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[分享] 2007 4月雲南遊後小小資料分享
先多謝各位幫助提供資料. 現遊後分享小小資料.
date : 4/April-10/april 07
trip :
4/4 廣州一早飛昆明 ,(9:00pm)夜巴去麗江
5/4 (7:30) 到麗江 ,玩玉龍 (大索道)
6/4 local tour 2天 玩上虎跳峽->中甸(玩古城,住新城)
7/4 玩中甸 national park
8/4 早乘車 to 瀘沽湖
9/4 乘車返麗江, 麗江夜巴去昆明
10/4 4:30am到昆明, 玩石林 ,夜飛回深圳,回港.
Some information update and suggest
(A)玉龍
1) 紅太陽廣場坐班車 $10 . 有些小面的講 $8..but after i saya just 2 person, and not ride horse...he ask us to ride 班車 !
2) 班車 say can help you to 逃票. They say $60 (but not ride his car directly go in, he call another car to take you up in half way of road before entry...what i think is they really didn't take you to 大索道, is take you to ride horse ! So i refuse.
At last we 逃票 by 躺在車位下, $50/person.. success !! haha.
3) It worth (i think) to spend $160 to 大索道, can really touch the snow . And if you strong enough, walk to top of the 棧道 !It's very good experience ! I think it not worth to go to other 小索道, as you can't touch the snow and if just want to see the hill, u can see at 麗江 already !
4) don't listen people to ride any horse to 玉龍 ..one group people i meet at 麗江 tell me not interesting at all! can't see any snow (don't think touch!) .
5) i suggest not to join any local tour for 玉龍. As the price different is not too much,even may cheaper if you can 逃票 : ) , the 班車 and inter-site traffic is very easy.
And most important, is tour give you too few time to stay at hill top. I hear is just 1 hour. If you just go to top and have a look, 1 hr may enough. But if you like to walk to top of 棧道, you need to spend some time. For those strong guy, may just spend 20 minutes to walk up and down. But as those weak guy like me....., i spend 45 minutes..and after need a lot of time to rest and breath !
6) after go to 大索道, can go to other site like 白水河 . (甘海子 is the land just opposite the road of 大索道入口). you can ride free bus to go to these place very easy. (actucally i don't think is free bus, you already pay $120 for just enter the hill)
date : 4/April-10/april 07
trip :
4/4 廣州一早飛昆明 ,(9:00pm)夜巴去麗江
5/4 (7:30) 到麗江 ,玩玉龍 (大索道)
6/4 local tour 2天 玩上虎跳峽->中甸(玩古城,住新城)
7/4 玩中甸 national park
8/4 早乘車 to 瀘沽湖
9/4 乘車返麗江, 麗江夜巴去昆明
10/4 4:30am到昆明, 玩石林 ,夜飛回深圳,回港.
Some information update and suggest
(A)玉龍
1) 紅太陽廣場坐班車 $10 . 有些小面的講 $8..but after i saya just 2 person, and not ride horse...he ask us to ride 班車 !
2) 班車 say can help you to 逃票. They say $60 (but not ride his car directly go in, he call another car to take you up in half way of road before entry...what i think is they really didn't take you to 大索道, is take you to ride horse ! So i refuse.
At last we 逃票 by 躺在車位下, $50/person.. success !! haha.
3) It worth (i think) to spend $160 to 大索道, can really touch the snow . And if you strong enough, walk to top of the 棧道 !It's very good experience ! I think it not worth to go to other 小索道, as you can't touch the snow and if just want to see the hill, u can see at 麗江 already !
4) don't listen people to ride any horse to 玉龍 ..one group people i meet at 麗江 tell me not interesting at all! can't see any snow (don't think touch!) .
5) i suggest not to join any local tour for 玉龍. As the price different is not too much,even may cheaper if you can 逃票 : ) , the 班車 and inter-site traffic is very easy.
And most important, is tour give you too few time to stay at hill top. I hear is just 1 hour. If you just go to top and have a look, 1 hr may enough. But if you like to walk to top of 棧道, you need to spend some time. For those strong guy, may just spend 20 minutes to walk up and down. But as those weak guy like me....., i spend 45 minutes..and after need a lot of time to rest and breath !
6) after go to 大索道, can go to other site like 白水河 . (甘海子 is the land just opposite the road of 大索道入口). you can ride free bus to go to these place very easy. (actucally i don't think is free bus, you already pay $120 for just enter the hill)
中甸
(A) 古城
1) not many to see, just like a very small 麗江. Buy thing here is cheap..so take your action now!
2) As the land near 大轉筒 now is on consturction ( don't know building what, hope is not building
a road to 大轉筒 to charge us money!). So if you need to go, you need to climb to hill, the road is not good. The tour guild we join didn't mention 大轉筒, as he don't like you to go .
(B) Others
3) national park
there is not easy. If want to go there , may consider join local tour like me.
local tour 2 days, 上虎跳峽+national park
At the first night, they ask us to join the party ($85/person), or go to eat fire meat($160/person) .I don't join either.
Now, the site outside the park id contructing ,
after that complete, the travel can be more easy
瀘沽湖
1) There are some 17 seat bus directly from 麗江 to 落水 (can buy ticket at hotel, motel etc) ,
and there is also some bigger bus (start at 新客運站, can buy yourself) . all start at 9:30 am.
Total price (to-back) is $120 (to 70, back 50).
I strongly suggest NOT to buy 17 seat one. As the car condition is very bad, the driver is not good. You can't change the back trip time if you want ( I meet a group of HK people at 瀘沽湖 want to stay one more night, so want to delay the back trip one day. The driver don't let them do it. )
I suggest those want to play at 里格 don't go there by this mean.
Actually, the easy and more comfort way is :
1) There are some 17 seat bus directly from 麗江 to 落水 (can buy ticket at hotel, motel etc) ,
and there is also some bigger bus (start at 新客運站, can buy yourself) . all start at 9:30 am.
Total price (to-back) is $120 (to 70, back 50).
I strongly suggest NOT to buy 17 seat one. As the car condition is very bad, the driver is not good. You can't change the back trip time if you want ( I meet a group of HK people at 瀘沽湖 want to stay one more night, so want to delay the back trip one day. The driver don't let them do it. )
I suggest those want to play at 里格 don't go there by this mean.
Actually, the easy and more comfort way is :
4:00 pm. around $28 . If you want to start at early, please buy the ticket one day onward as many people take this bus.
After to 宁蒗, many driver will ask you to 瀘沽湖 (can go 里格 directly $25). all car are 小面的.
Actucally, don't think 小面的 is danger. What my experience is it more more more comfort and safe. The road condition is very bad and many rock road. I ride 小面的 to and take 17 seat bus back . The to way, more comfort (we sit 7 person include driver, i site the back) and faster. The back way, ultra discomfort ! And if you go this way, you can have a break and lunch at 宁蒗. If the 17 seat, only give us 15 minutes break at the expensive restaurant he assign.
Many people will ask, is it worth to spend so many time ( from 麗江 to 瀘沽湖, near 8 hr) to 瀘沽湖. For my personal view...not too worth. The water is clean , the 湖 is pretty, but then nothing to see. As the 小面的 driver say, the most attractive of 瀘沽湖 is only 2 word .."走婚".. ha ha.
If you travel with your girl/boy friend there.....nothing play law.
People say the other attractive is walk from 里格 to 小落水 then 大嘴. I didn't walk it so no comment. But one hk couple i meet at 瀘沽湖 do it ( they stay 2 night already). they say..." ok la, not too pretty and too worth " .. may because it still april, the flower not come yet..
For Hotel at 里格. I sleep at the first one at 里格半島, $15/person. it ok, but public bathroom.
If you want more comfort, can sleep at 里格 ( walk to 半島 around 15 minutes) . price around $40/room with private bathroom. I suggest sleep at 里格 as more comfort and the view is more better, if you can book the room facing the river. At a fast glance, the 青年旅館 seems is better.
My final comment, the road to 瀘沽湖 got many pretty to see.
石林
You can join local tour (around $120) or do it yourself
If go yourself, please don't hear people say ride some to/back bus at $30.. they will bring you to
other site to buy thing !
You can ride train ( cheaper, but need to 轉車 from 石林站 to 石林景區門口), or take direct bus
from the bus station next to 昆明火車站 (i do it this way, half hour 1 bus, take you 2 hour go
there, $22)
The ticket for 石林 is $140, $100 for student. Got some vip ticket $160, can enter 石林 free for
coming 1 year.
For my comment, better go there at morning early, so can walk with the tour and listen what they
say. As 石林 is large, like puzzle, not easy to walk if you don't get people lead you ! Not many
map and point finger show your dirction. You will miss many site if you don't know. Or you can
hire a private tour ($40 ? ) , they will lead you all the way.
Eat around 石林 is not cheap at all, just 一碟野菜 can charge you $15.
Play 石林, i think 3 hour is enough .
You can join local tour (around $120) or do it yourself
If go yourself, please don't hear people say ride some to/back bus at $30.. they will bring you to
other site to buy thing !
You can ride train ( cheaper, but need to 轉車 from 石林站 to 石林景區門口), or take direct bus
from the bus station next to 昆明火車站 (i do it this way, half hour 1 bus, take you 2 hour go
there, $22)
The ticket for 石林 is $140, $100 for student. Got some vip ticket $160, can enter 石林 free for
coming 1 year.
For my comment, better go there at morning early, so can walk with the tour and listen what they
say. As 石林 is large, like puzzle, not easy to walk if you don't get people lead you ! Not many
map and point finger show your dirction. You will miss many site if you don't know. Or you can
hire a private tour ($40 ? ) , they will lead you all the way.
Eat around 石林 is not cheap at all, just 一碟野菜 can charge you $15.
Play 石林, i think 3 hour is enough .
食在雲南
1) everything is spicy (not my favour), even 野菜 is spicy.... so not much can make me feel good
2) for 過橋米線..actually, still is not my favour ( i love rice and meat !) . i try 建香園, 橋香園
at 金碧, 橋香園, 蒙自過橋米線at 麗江 .........
-> 蒙自過橋米線at麗江, is less 味精.
-> But my favour, is 冷米線 at 橋香園(金碧 only, 麗江 one less good), plus 木瓜水
3) At 麗江, my most favour food is 山羊大仙 at 長水街 . 羊肉 is really good, 騾肉 need more hard
to chew. If you want to go, best take taxi. And i must tell you it is 大排當....
4) 南瓜餅 , at the rood near 翠湖公園 ,(there is a market near) is really good !Just $0.5/each
5) 耗牛, as i try, is not too good at all.
6) It got many fruit : The strewberry is very sweet, good ! Apple is expensive (my girl friend buy it at 2/each ), apple got many water but not very much apple tatse(淡味). the other i try is not very well...either not sweet or 淡味.. may be due to weather la.
1) everything is spicy (not my favour), even 野菜 is spicy.... so not much can make me feel good
2) for 過橋米線..actually, still is not my favour ( i love rice and meat !) . i try 建香園, 橋香園
at 金碧, 橋香園, 蒙自過橋米線at 麗江 .........
-> 蒙自過橋米線at麗江, is less 味精.
-> But my favour, is 冷米線 at 橋香園(金碧 only, 麗江 one less good), plus 木瓜水
3) At 麗江, my most favour food is 山羊大仙 at 長水街 . 羊肉 is really good, 騾肉 need more hard
to chew. If you want to go, best take taxi. And i must tell you it is 大排當....
4) 南瓜餅 , at the rood near 翠湖公園 ,(there is a market near) is really good !Just $0.5/each
5) 耗牛, as i try, is not too good at all.
6) It got many fruit : The strewberry is very sweet, good ! Apple is expensive (my girl friend buy it at 2/each ), apple got many water but not very much apple tatse(淡味). the other i try is not very well...either not sweet or 淡味.. may be due to weather la.
高山症
Many people worry about this , espically who will go to 中甸, 玉龍 and 梅利. Let me share what we counter in our trip as me and my girl friend got it both !
In 2 day of our trip , we ride night bus from 昆明 to 麗江 , nothing happen . ( One of a middle age women i met at 瀘沽湖 say when she just aboard 麗江, she immediately feel headache)
At that morning, we go to 玉龍.
1) To 大索道 base, we ok. After take the 大索道 bus to 索道 上行入口, i start feel some headache. My gf ok. It about 3300 m
Many people worry about this , espically who will go to 中甸, 玉龍 and 梅利. Let me share what we counter in our trip as me and my girl friend got it both !
In 2 day of our trip , we ride night bus from 昆明 to 麗江 , nothing happen . ( One of a middle age women i met at 瀘沽湖 say when she just aboard 麗江, she immediately feel headache)
At that morning, we go to 玉龍.
1) To 大索道 base, we ok. After take the 大索道 bus to 索道 上行入口, i start feel some headache. My gf ok. It about 3300 m
2) during ride 索道 to top hill, i feel headach, but just little.
3) when walk to the 4500m rock to take photo , headache more. my gf nothing
4) when slowly start to walk up the 棧道 to top of the hill we can reach (4680m), my feeling is same, just some headache, need more hard breath. But my girl friend start say discomfort and need more rest
5) walk about 100 step... she say discomfort and need to stop. So i with her back to the lower snow land and wait , i continue to try.
6) I walk to top of hill we can reach by 棧道, 4680m . then back to snow land see her. ( it take me at least 45 minutes)
7) After i meet her, she feel very discomfort, suck the Oxygen strongly. and she 嘔吐 at the snow.I give her 2x500mg panadol.
8) We rest about 15 minutes, she 嘔吐 2 time more, back to 3300
9) She still discomfort 嘔吐 1 more . we take the bus to base
10) After to base, we rest about 30 minutes. She can't take any food, include chocolate. Then take shuttle bus to 白水河.
11) She say better when reach 白水河, but headache and very tired.
12) we take a few photo, let her sit down about 20 minutes. Get better, but still tired
13) about 4:30pm to 麗江, She get more and more better. some headache, tire. She say start hungry.
We go to 大石橋小吃..( it famous, but i don't think food is good !) she not eat much.
We go to 大石橋小吃..( it famous, but i don't think food is good !) she not eat much.
14) Then we back to 酒店 to sleep ( i feel tired too, some headache, take panadol), rest till 7:30 pm. She wake up and say more and more better as normal, some tire and slightly headache. Then go to dinner and she ok all night.
We buy 紅景天 and start to eat
At the second day, we go to 上虎跳峽. She got nothing at all in the coming day. But i start to feel headache and very tired always. I think I got some fever. Although is tired and some headache, take more sleep and each day take 2-3 panadol can make me go on.
Till back to home 2 day now, i got no headache, but till tired. can sleep a lot
So my conclusion
1) 高山症 can be terrible.
We buy 紅景天 and start to eat
At the second day, we go to 上虎跳峽. She got nothing at all in the coming day. But i start to feel headache and very tired always. I think I got some fever. Although is tired and some headache, take more sleep and each day take 2-3 panadol can make me go on.
Till back to home 2 day now, i got no headache, but till tired. can sleep a lot
So my conclusion
1) 高山症 can be terrible.
2) 紅景天 please get it and eat before you reach highland ( it not expensive $16-30 for at least 20 pill )
3) If headache, panadol is useful. Please eat if you need, so you can get better condition to continue your trip.
4) if feel want 嘔吐, please do it. My gf release a lot after 嘔吐
5) If 高山症 at 玉龍, rest a while, than back to base as soon as possible. After you go to lowerland, it release a lot ( but you will still tired, but no 嘔吐 and less headache)
6) Please buy Oxygen . It large , but not heavy. Can use in many place you go . At 中甸 , sell at $35, 玊龍 $40
7) If you buy chocolate, buy those milk chocolate really is sweet ! those some chocolate facing food got no use! eat chocolate get you warn and better.
8) Please bring more warm cloth at your trip. As if you got 高山症, you feel tired easily, also easy get cold. If not enough cloth, easy get sick !
9) If you don't like take pill of 紅景天, there got some 紅景天藥材 can directly put into cold/hot water to drink. It cheap, $10 a lot. One of our trip friend tried. She say ok.
10) to protect your eye and skin . High spf 防曬 ( must apply few time per day, as sun down at about 8:00pm) cap and 太暘鏡 must prepare , especially for lady .
Last Comment
1) As afraid 高山症 ( not just make you headache, but will also make you tire), don't go to highland immediately after you land, like 玉龍, 中甸,and 梅利. May go to 瀘沽湖 first if it include in your trip
2) 瀘沽湖 is highly developing ! I know a new road is building. I hear is that one airport is constructing ? However, even at 里格 , it already 商業化 . I hear people say all "走婚" need money, and you can even BUY the baby they born ! Terrible....
3) I know some traveller like me will consider 玉龍 or 梅利. For my own opinion, 玉龍 is enough for normal traveller. It's near and can play snow ! If choice 梅利, you can just see the great hill ( hear people say always can't see it clearly) , but need to spend a lot of time on road !
Of course, if you got 4-5 days, go to 梅利+ 雨崩, then it's other word.
4) Must select right time to visit 雲南. Like me , to昆明 翠湖, no bird see, to 圓通山 no 櫻花, to 中甸, no glassland no flower . How come can say paradise !
5) 雲南 is really easy to travel, but i feel (not feel, is can see ) that in the coming year, place like 中甸 and 瀘沽湖 will be highly develope. The price go there will rise a lot , but return traveler more easy and comfort. Like i join local tour 2 days for 中甸, the agent there tell me from 1/April, it already call "Hot season".
If go before 31/March, $340 2 days, After 1/April, $420 , at early MAy, may jump to double !.....all rise terrible !
6) Bring warn enough than more cloth please. As you will feel cold at morning, night and after rain.
7) Take 班車 at 麗江 to other location, better go to 新客運站. It more far away 古城, but the car arrangement and car condition is better.
8) Travel at 麗江, open your mind please. I see many Hong Kong people will not play with other china people , even talk to them. Actually, many china traveller like u and me, are kind. Like the 3 people we together to take car to 瀘沽湖 are from beijing. Each time they fight to pay the bill ! Help you to carry your cloth ! Of course, you need to care, select those meet your personel to play together (mind your pocket of course ! )
1) As afraid 高山症 ( not just make you headache, but will also make you tire), don't go to highland immediately after you land, like 玉龍, 中甸,and 梅利. May go to 瀘沽湖 first if it include in your trip
2) 瀘沽湖 is highly developing ! I know a new road is building. I hear is that one airport is constructing ? However, even at 里格 , it already 商業化 . I hear people say all "走婚" need money, and you can even BUY the baby they born ! Terrible....
3) I know some traveller like me will consider 玉龍 or 梅利. For my own opinion, 玉龍 is enough for normal traveller. It's near and can play snow ! If choice 梅利, you can just see the great hill ( hear people say always can't see it clearly) , but need to spend a lot of time on road !
Of course, if you got 4-5 days, go to 梅利+ 雨崩, then it's other word.
4) Must select right time to visit 雲南. Like me , to昆明 翠湖, no bird see, to 圓通山 no 櫻花, to 中甸, no glassland no flower . How come can say paradise !
5) 雲南 is really easy to travel, but i feel (not feel, is can see ) that in the coming year, place like 中甸 and 瀘沽湖 will be highly develope. The price go there will rise a lot , but return traveler more easy and comfort. Like i join local tour 2 days for 中甸, the agent there tell me from 1/April, it already call "Hot season".
If go before 31/March, $340 2 days, After 1/April, $420 , at early MAy, may jump to double !.....all rise terrible !
6) Bring warn enough than more cloth please. As you will feel cold at morning, night and after rain.
7) Take 班車 at 麗江 to other location, better go to 新客運站. It more far away 古城, but the car arrangement and car condition is better.
8) Travel at 麗江, open your mind please. I see many Hong Kong people will not play with other china people , even talk to them. Actually, many china traveller like u and me, are kind. Like the 3 people we together to take car to 瀘沽湖 are from beijing. Each time they fight to pay the bill ! Help you to carry your cloth ! Of course, you need to care, select those meet your personel to play together (mind your pocket of course ! )
***
廣告時間
I just recommend one thing. one hotel at 麗江. It call 春
Why recommend it ? 2 reasons
1) The room is quiet new, especailly the toilet. That the most clean toilet i meet in the trip.
And it have 坐
will fly out of the hole or drop to my feet.. ...and no 排水口 open can see by me at toilet (i always think something will run out from them)!
2) The most important, is the boss really impress me ! he is really nice guy! As we don't know how to go to 新客運站. he immediately lock the hotel front door and bring us to the location himself (need 20 minutes) ! And he prepare us breadfast free at morning (although just 粥 and bread) !
The location of hotel is not very good, it near 木府. If walk from 四方街, around 10 minutes. So make it not many people and so you can fight the price lower ($40/room) . But if you need to goto 新客運站, it just need you 20 minutes walk . So no need take taxi, near than 四方街 a lot.
He set a telescope at roof, so you can see the city. and can see 玉龍 clearly!
Here is some photo of him , sorry for this 廣告...
I just recommend one thing. one hotel at 麗江. It call 春
Why recommend it ? 2 reasons
1) The room is quiet new, especailly the toilet. That the most clean toilet i meet in the trip.
And it have 坐
will fly out of the hole or drop to my feet..
2) The most important, is the boss really impress me ! he is really nice guy! As we don't know how to go to 新客運站. he immediately lock the hotel front door and bring us to the location himself (need 20 minutes) ! And he prepare us breadfast free at morning (although just 粥 and bread) !
The location of hotel is not very good, it near 木府. If walk from 四方街, around 10 minutes. So make it not many people and so you can fight the price lower ($40/room) . But if you need to goto 新客運站, it just need you 20 minutes walk . So no need take taxi, near than 四方街 a lot.
He set a telescope at roof, so you can see the city. and can see 玉龍 clearly!
Here is some photo of him , sorry for this 廣告...
